Paircraft / Wines

Wines

Wines Tested for Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes

Sommelier Christy Canterbury blind-tasted 34 wines with the dish. They didn’t all pair well, but each helped her on the journey to the perfect pairings.

Perfect Pairing
Pol Roger, Brut, Reserve

Pol Roger Brut Reserve

Region: La Vallée de la Marne, Champagne, France
Vintage Tested: NV
Type: White, Sparkling
Varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir
What you're looking for here is a sparkling wine made with all three traditional Champagne grapes; that has a rounder, more generous style--classic Champagne house style, not grower Champagne style, that matches the pairing characteristics below but with a sweetness level that is somewhere between none and low--you want a Brut style, not Extra Brut or Zero Dosage.
Perfect Pairing for: Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes
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Flavor

intense, fruit-driven palate; apples; peaches

Texture

smooth

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ABV: 12.5%
Bubbles: Fine
Almost

AA Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc

Region: South Africa, Swartland
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Chenin Blanc
Not as a match but as a contrast. The wine is very dry and saline even though it starts out fruit driven on the nose. The pairing result is dry and saline with a bit of tannin on the finish. It cleans up the crab richness. Can't say it's great.
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Flavor

quince paste, baking spice, very spicy, tannin and light saline on finish

Texture

smooth

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ABV: 12.50%
Oak: Some
Almost
Brokenwood Semillion

Brokenwood Semillion

Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Semillon
It's fun. It's not bad. The pairing result is lemony and zest. If we had lemon zest on the dish, maybe this would be better. It's kind of lightweight for this generous, intense crab cake. If you're buying crab, spending coin, buy a wine that matches it.
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Flavor

lighter end of citrusy, lime, white grapefruit, honeydew melon

Texture

lacy

Almost
Pinot Blanc, Rayon de Lune Charles Frey

Charles Frey “Rayon de Lune” Pinot Blanc

Region: Alsace, France
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Pinot Blanc
I'm a fan of this as a contrast. It's pithy and tight and wound-up and works as a contrast to this rich, succulent dish. Also it has a bit of tannin that cleans up the crab cake. Not first choice but works.
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Flavor

yeasty, chalk, pink grapefruit

Texture

terrycloth

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Oak: Some
Almost
CVNE Cune Rosado Rioja

CVNE Cune Rosado Rioja

Region: Rioja, Spain
Vintage Tested: 2020
Type: Rosé, Still
There's this bit of fattiness, juiciness, and succulence to both the wine and the dish, and what's surprising to me is that the wine, which is not super high in acidity actually works well. The fruitiness of the wine balances the sweet but saline texture of the crab cake.
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Flavor

strawberry, watermelon, not complex, short finish

Texture

smooth
mouthcoating

Almost
DeWetshof Estate Lesca Chardonnay

DeWetshof Estate “Lesca” Chardonnay

Region: Robertson, South Africa
Vintage Tested: 2018
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Chardonnay
I don't want to drink the wine, but I think it works well. It's swank. There's nothing I ever learned about wine pairing that would make me think that oaked wines would be great with this dish, but they are. I wouldn't particularly like to drink the wine but it is a brilliant pairing. Much to my chagrin it works. Because I don't want to drink the wine, I'll give this pairing an "Almost" rating.
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Flavor

apple pie with cinnamon, intensely concentrated fruit, toasted oak

Texture

smooth but chunky

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ABV: 14%
Oak: Some
Almost
Elderton Estate Shiraz Barossa

Elderton “Estate” Shiraz Barossa

Region: Barossa, South Australia, Australia
Vintage Tested: 2017
Type: Red, Still
Varietal: Syrah
There's a spiciness to the wine and generosity that works with this dish.The oak in the wine seems to be really well integrated. It's not a coat of paint. I think this is a classic case of I don't know what but the toasty, pan-fried notes really work with this wine. I'm blown away. The two have similar body and richness. The voluptuousness, the tannins make it possible to drink this red wine with this dish. It works but it's a bit too big for the dish.
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Flavor

smoky, spice rack, mulberry, blackberry, chocolate

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ABV: 14.5%
Oak: Some
Almost
Diego Los Bermejos

Los Bermejos Diego

Region: Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
Vintage Tested: 2020
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Diego
There's a very good contrast between the grapefruit and lemon flavors in the wine and the richness of the crab cake. If you use the lemon squeeze on the crab, the pairing result echoes the lemon flavor. Also the salinity in the wine, almost volcanic, matches very nicely with the shellfish. Both have very high flavor intensity. There's a good creaminess in the wine. The flavor and weight of the two match. Pretty good.
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Flavor

full-flavored, nectarine, pink grapefruit, herbal element

Texture

voluptuous
satiny

Almost
Onabay Vineyards 22Yellow Crown 22 Chardonnay

Onabay Vineyards “Yellow Crown” Chardonnay

Region: North Fork, Long Island, USA, New York
Vintage Tested: 2018
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Chardonnay
I think this is a wee bit light in body. A bit wanting. There is that pungent saline, salty thing, and a bit more apple and yellow plum notes that weave fruity contrast to the earthy, saline thing in the crab cake and that works. But, it's not favorite. It's solid. It's a contrast and it's not in harmony.
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Flavor

lees, yeast, yellow apple peel, green tea, salty short finish

Texture

tacky

Almost
Pierre Moncuit Brut Rosé

Pierre Moncuit Brut Rosé

Region: France
Vintage Tested: NV
Type: Rosé, Sparkling
Works really nicely with the crab cake, blends into the Maillard reaction with the crab cake. The wine tastes surprisingly more fruit driven, which blows my mind and is super fun. Even the apricot seems more lively, which is fascinating. The appearance of more fruit generosity ties in nicely with the luxuriousness of the crab. This has really good acidity and blends in with as opposed to erasing the crab cake from my palate. This lets the crab cake mingle on the palate.
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Flavor

rising bread dough, dried fruits, apricot, peach, not a lot of fresh fruit, concentration, intensity

Texture

broad
tingly
rough

More
Oak: Mild
Oxidation: Some
Almost
Raventós i Blanc Cava Rosé de Nit

Raventós i Blanc Cava Rosé de Nit

Region: Penedès, Spain
Vintage Tested: 2018
Type: Rosé, Sparkling
Varietal: Macabeo , Parellada, Xarel-lo, Monastrell
Works nicely. There's a reserved character of the wine. The two are equal partners, they mesh together. Bubbles and pithy dryness and tart acidity are very harmonious with the more unctuous parts of the crab cake. Acid heads will love it.
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Flavor

sweet strawberry, touch of cherry, sweet lady apples, quite ripe, finishes dry, tiny bit of tannic texture, little bit of herbaceous sweet parsley, touch of rolls and yeastiness, not from autolysis, it’s not brioche

Texture

delicate

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Biodynamic
Bubbles: Slight
Almost
St. Innocent Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill Vineyard

St. Innocent Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill Vineyard

Region: Willamette, Oregon, USA
Vintage Tested: 2016
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Pinot Blanc
The generosity and sweetness of the fruit in the wine matched with the crab. I thought it was going to be boring and too obvious of a wine for such a sophisticated dish, but I feel ashamed to have had that thought. I think it works pretty well. It's very pleasant, I'm blown away. I never ever would have chosen that wine for this dish, but having tasted it, I would now.
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Flavor

peach, apricot, very much an explosion of fruit, not much else there

Texture

silky smooth

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ABV: 13.50%
Almost
Vaglio Aggie Malbec

Vaglio “Aggie” Malbec

Region: Mendoza, Argentina
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: Rosé, Still
Varietal: Malbec
It's not fantastic but it is outside of my normal expectation for this pairing--it's surprisingly good.
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Flavor

blueberry compote, dried fruit, dark blue-black fruit

Texture

Medium +

More
ABV: 13.90%
Oak: Extensive
Almost
Veuve Fourny 1er Cru Grande Reserve Brut

Veuve Fourny 1er Cru Grande Reserve Brut

Region: Côte de Blancs, Champagne, France
Vintage Tested: NV
Type: White, Sparkling
Varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
It's good but not great--the wine overtakes the crab cakes. The crustiness of the crab cake matches really well with the toasted bread characteristics of the wine and there's a sweetness of fruit that goes back to sweetness of crab meat. The bubbles and high acidity are good.
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Flavor

golden apple, apple peel, oatmeal, very crisp

Texture

neutral

More
Bubbles: Fine
Oak: Some
DOESN'T WORK
Manzanilla Callejuela Sherry

Callejuela Manzanilla Sherry

Region: Jerez, Spain
Vintage Tested: NV
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Palomino
I feel like this is a bit flabby. It's surprising because there's no tannin in the wine, but there is dryness that is almost searing. I see both the wine and crab have some sweetness to them but almost different genres. The weights match nicely. The sherry tastes blah, flat.
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Flavor

dried yellow apple skin, salted popcorn, crushed peanuts, hint of volatile acidity

Texture

Lean

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ABV: 15.00%
Oak: Some
Oxidation: Extensive
DOESN'T WORK
Chateau Graville-Lacoste Graves

Chateau Gaville-Lacoste Graves

Region: Bordeaux, France
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle
Not horrible. On a casual terrace, it works. The refreshment of the wine works, but the pairing doesn't work.
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Flavor

grapefruit rind, unripe strawberry, green, a bit herbal, thyme

Texture

papery

More
ABV: 12%
DOESN'T WORK
Vin de Savoie Abymes Domaine Labbé

Domaine Labbé “Abymes” Vin de Savoie

Region: Savoie, France
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Jacquère
You think it's going to be nice and refreshing. There are some pretty notes that allude to sweetness, but then the wine is underweight, not big enough for the dish. There are lots of elements that theoretically could work but they don't.
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Flavor

slate, minerality, grapefruit, peaches, green apple

Texture

tight
grippy

DOESN'T WORK
Fausse Piste Mineral Selection Viognier

Fausse Piste “Mineral Selection” Viognier

Region: Washington, USA
Vintage Tested: 2016
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Viognier
You need more acid in the wine. Both are bass notes. There's nothing to punch the dish up. There's tannin. There's an unctuousness and generosity of fruit available to the crab cake, but it needs more support.
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Flavor

savory, salty, orchard fruit, toasted nut

Texture

pleather
smooth but clingy

More
Oak: Some
Oxidation: Mild
DOESN'T WORK
Albariño Fefiñanes

Fefiñanes Albariño

Region: Rías Biaxas, Spain
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Albariño
Its candied notes kind of work, but I didn't love the pairing.
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Flavor

flower bouquet, persimmon, cantaloupe, hand soap, fragrance slightly manufactured, crushed slate, graphite

Texture

silky

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ABV: 13.50%
DOESN'T WORK
Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Gaspard

Gaspard Touraine Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Loire, France
Vintage Tested: 2019
Type: White, Still
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Interesting. Similar weight. Both have oomph. While the wine is rather grapey and has high-intensity aromatics, the saltiness in the crab cake cancels it out. Not many people would be into it.
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Flavor

orange peel, grape, orange water

Texture

oily

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ABV: 12.50%
Practicing Organic
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